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Week 3 Lets Go

  Equipment needed: Long Line, Training Collar, Food Reward (if that is what we are working with)   STEP 1:  You will be wanting to hold the end of the long leash for this one. STEP 2:     In the opposite hand, you will want to be holding the food reward. STEP 3:    Let your puppy get distracted.  If they go to the end of the line, just keep constant tension on until they turn towards you.   When they look at you OR they are not putting pressure on the line (in other words distracted but not going to the end of the line and they do not need to be looking at you) say the command "let's go". STEP 5A:   When your puppy starts to come towards you, say "good girl/boy" and then  they get to you give them the food reward. STEP 5B:   If your puppy does not turn towards you, give a little tug on the leash, and the instant they lock eyes and come towards you say "good boy or girl" encouragingly until they get to you.  ...

Week 3 Attention to Name

  STEP 1:   Your puppy should be on their 6' lead and a collar. STEP 2:    Be sure you are prepared with  kibble in your hand  BEFORE giving a command. STEP 3:   Say your puppy's name. STEP 4A:     Immediately upon your dog looking into your face (and not glancing immediately away), say your release word "yes" and deliver the food reward as you release them. STEP 4B:    If they do not look to you, first try calling their name again.   Give them 10 seconds in between so you aren't just rapidly firing off their name.   If they are just really enamored of something other than you, you could try to gently tug on their leash and see if they will turn.   You could also try to make a silly noise after you say their name.   Usually though, once they know what the deal is with the food reward, it does not take more than three times to get them to look at you. STEP 5:    You can either repeat this exercise f...

Week 3 Lured Heeling Step 1

  STEP 1:    Lure your puppy or dog into a sit in heel position (puppy's shoulder should line up with your leg) on the side of you and facing in the same direction as you .  When sitting in position, you can give your puppy the food reward. STEP 2:   Before heeling, be sure to have a food reward in your left hand. STEP 3:   Now you want to stand straight with the treat now held above your dog's nose.   Remember though, that you still are luring him into the heel position that you want.  Arm should be extended slightly in front of you (not off to the side) to lure your puppy's head forward straight and slightly beyond your leg. STEP 4:   Say "heel" and step forward with your left foot.  Your treat hand should be held slightly in front of your puppy's nose. STEP 5   Go a number of steps forward (be sure that you can retain your puppy's focus (If it is difficult you probably need to reduce the steps).   If your puppy walks or...

Week 3 Stay with Distractions

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PROPERTY OF MANNERLY MUTTS DOG TRAINING AND ROBIN RUBIN. WE ONLY ALLOW PAYING CLIENTS TO COPY THIS MATERIAL FOR THEIR USE ALONE. THIS MATERIAL MUST NOT BE DISTRIBUTED TO OTHER NON-CLIENT PARTIES OF MANNERLY MUTTS WITHOUT EXPRESS PERMISSION. NOTE ON STAYS:   DO NOT RUSH THROUGH THIS EXERCISE.   IF YOU STOP AT ONE SECTION, BUT DO THE BEST WORK POSSIBLE THAT IS MOST IMPORTANT.   IF YOU CAME HERE MORE ADVANCED, BUT HAVE TROUBLE AT ONE LEVEL, THEN BACK DOWN TO THE PREVIOUS LEVEL, AND GET THAT DONE CORRECTLY BEFORE MOVING ON.   CORRECTLY GOING ON MEANS THAT THE DOG CAN PERFORM THE TASK WITHOUT TREAT OR CORRECTION FOUR OUT OF FIVE TIMES. Equipment Needed: 6' Leash (to begin with) Training Collar (martingale, metal chain collar, or prong collar) 15' Leash (after four out of five stays while on the move with distractions can be accomplished at more than a 6' distance WITH distractions present) Explanation and Goal of Exercise:...

Week 3 Interim Correction for Sit (beginning of sit correction) with Heeling

 The goal for this week will be to do four in a row without needing the correction (which means it is very important to use the well timed correction when it is needed).   You will want to do this (with the heeling) for a half an hour a day. STEP 1 :  Heel with your dog, but be sure that your dog is in good heel position before preparing for the sit command.. STEP 2:    When ready say "sit" as you plant your left foot (while standing you will also close this up with your right foot, but you want to say sit while your dog is in good heel position to catch them as soon as possible---they will later learn to read this body language to create an auto sit).     Also keep your leash loose like a J next to the dog's neck when you say sit (no tension in the leash.   remember tension is only in times of correction) STEP 3:  Give your dog one second, and have your leash prepared for the correction by having your hand down ...

Week 2 Homework Notes and Videos

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  NOTE:   All notes for Week 1 Remain mostly the same [This is linked to Week 1 if you need it].  One exception is that you can bring Sit on The Dog to outside in your yard.  If she does well there, you can bring her to a low key place where an occasional LEASHED ONLY dog might walk by (and from a distance of 50 to 100 feet). Obedience Exercises: Molded Sits and Sit Stay Rotation 15 minutes Goal:  For sit stays the goal is to build up to one minute (remember this is a goal that is not necessarily needed to be 1 minute for next week, keep at four in a row of the previous time until it is easy).  For molded sits, the only goal is to stick with her until she feels like she is softening on your touch and not bracing (I often say it the dog should feel like they are melting under your touch).  NOTE:  WE ARE NOT DOING THE REPS THE INSTRUCTIONS SAY FOR THESE INDIVIDUALLY. Send to Place   5 plus minutes   Goal:  To get your dog to step ...

Week 2 Molded Sits and Release Word

Equipment needed: 6' Leather Lead Training Collar OR JUST SLIP LEAD IN LUNA'S CASE NOTE 1:  WE ARE DOING THIS A BIT DIFFERENTLY AS WE STARTED THE STAY WITH THE MOLDED SITS.   IF THE MOLDED SITS GET WORSE FOR SOME REASON, YOU CAN ALWAYS DO THOSE SEPARATELY. Explanation and Goal of Exercise: This method of molding the dog into position, teaches the dog to allow our hands to mold and manipulate various parts of their body. The handler is also teaching themselves how to determine if a dog's muscles are relaxed with trust OR tense with distrust. Additionally, it is possible to detect a physical problem by touch as you mold your dog down. This also prepares your dog to sink into a sit readily when given the correction later on (if the correction is even necessary).  A sit is when your dog's upper torso is upright,  front leg(s) on the ground/floor, and bottom area is on the ground. Hand Drills (practice until your moves can move swiftly through the motions...